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- 到大同的那晚是十一月,高铁站外的风像有人从冰柜里抓了一把东西拍在脸上。出租车司机看我把围巾裹到眼睛下面,笑着说:"你们南方人,到了大同先得学会喘气——用鼻子,别用嘴,嘴里进风。"他叫老高,大同生人,五十出头,一路给我讲这座城的旧事:哪栋楼底下原来是个煤场,哪条街的醋厂味道十几年没散。我原本对大同的想象停在"煤都"两个字
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