甘南：被遗忘的藏区秘境七日行 | Gannan: Seven Days in Tibet's Forgotten Paradise

笔者第一次踏入甘南藏族自治州，是在一个七月的清晨。从兰州出发，沿着G213国道一路向西南，海拔从1500米缓缓攀升至3000米以上，车窗外的景色从黄土高原渐变为无垠的高山草甸。那一刻笔者便意识到，这片位于甘肃省西南部、青藏高原东北边缘的土地，藏着中国最被低估的旅行目的地。

The author first set foot in Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture on a July morning. Departing Lanzhou along the G213 national highway heading southwest, the altitude climbed steadily from 1,500 meters to over 3,000 meters, and the view outside the window shifted from the Loess Plateau to boundless alpine meadows. In that moment, it became clear that this land on the northeastern edge of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, tucked into southwestern Gansu Province, harbors one of China's most underrated travel destinations.

第一日至第二日：夏河与拉卜楞寺 / Days 1–2: Xiahe and Labrang Monastery

甘南之旅的起点，几乎都绑定在夏河县（海拔约2900米）。这座小城因拉卜楞寺而闻名于世——这座始建于1709年的格鲁派六大寺院之一，至今仍是藏传佛教最重要的学术中心之一，常驻僧侣约1200人。笔者沿着全世界最长的转经廊（约3.5公里，共设转经筒1700余个）缓步行走，身旁是虔诚的藏族信众，手中的经筒在晨光中闪烁着铜色的光芒。2025年起，拉卜楞寺对游客实行预约制参观，门票40元，建议通过"甘南文旅"微信小程序提前一天预约。

The journey through Gannan almost always begins in Xiahe County (elevation approximately 2,900m). This small town owes its fame to Labrang Monastery — one of the six great monasteries of the Gelug school, founded in 1709, and still one of Tibetan Buddhism's most important academic centers, home to around 1,200 resident monks. The author walked slowly along the world's longest prayer wheel corridor (approximately 3.5 km, housing over 1,700 prayer wheels), flanked by devout Tibetan pilgrims whose spinning wheels caught the morning light in flashes of copper. Since 2025, Labrang Monastery requires advance reservations for visitors; tickets cost 40 RMB, and booking through the "Gannan Cultural Tourism" WeChat mini-program one day ahead is recommended.

夏河的另一处不可错过之地是桑科草原，距县城仅13公里。每年六月至八月，草原上野花遍地，牧民搭起黑色牦牛帐篷，游客可以体验骑马（约50-80元/小时）和品尝正宗的藏式酥油茶与糌粑。笔者建议在桑科住一晚帐篷营地（约200-400元/晚），夜晚的银河肉眼可见，是城市中无法想象的壮观。

Another unmissable spot near Xiahe is Sangke Grassland, just 13 km from town. From June through August, wildflowers blanket the prairie, herders pitch black yak-hair tents, and visitors can try horseback riding (about 50–80 RMB/hour) and taste authentic Tibetan butter tea and tsampa. The author recommends spending a night at a tent camp on Sangke (roughly 200–400 RMB/night) — the Milky Way is visible to the naked eye, a spectacle unimaginable from any city.

第三日至第四日：扎尕那石城 / Days 3–4: Zhagana Stone Fortress

从夏河驱车约五小时（经合作市、碌曲县），便抵达迭部县的扎尕那。这个名字在藏语中意为"石匣子"，而当笔者站在观景台上俯瞰时，才真正理解了这个名字的精妙——四周是刀削般的石灰岩峭壁，海拔从2800米陡升至4500米，而峭壁环抱之中，是层层叠叠的藏族村寨和翠绿的青稞田。2023年扎尕那被列入联合国教科文组织世界地质公园网络，此后基础设施持续升级，但截至2025年仍保持着令人欣慰的原始气质。

A five-hour drive from Xiahe (via Hezuo and Luqu counties) leads to Zhagana in Diebu County. The name means "stone box" in Tibetan, and standing on the viewing platform looking down, the author finally grasped its precision — sheer limestone cliffs rise from 2,800m to 4,500m on all sides, cradling terraced Tibetan hamlets and emerald highland barley fields within their embrace. Zhagana was inscribed in the UNESCO Global Geoparks Network in 2023, and while infrastructure has steadily improved since, as of 2025 it still retains a gratifying sense of untouched authenticity.

扎尕那景区门票为80元（含观光车），笔者强烈推荐徒步"仙女滩—仙女湖"环线（约12公里，5-6小时），沿途穿越原始森林、高山牧场和冰川湖泊。住宿方面，村内藏式民宿价格在150-500元/晚不等，旺季（7-8月）务必提前预订。需要注意的是，扎尕那海拔较高，初到者应注意高原反应，建议携带红景天等预防药物。

Zhagana scenic area tickets cost 80 RMB (including shuttle bus). The author strongly recommends the "Fairy Meadow–Fairy Lake" loop hike (approximately 12 km, 5–6 hours), which passes through primeval forest, alpine pastures, and glacial lakes. Accommodation in the village ranges from 150 to 500 RMB/night for Tibetan-style guesthouses; during peak season (July–August), advance booking is essential. Note that Zhagana sits at considerable altitude — newcomers should watch for altitude sickness and consider bringing preventive remedies such as Rhodiola rosea supplements.

第五日：郎木寺——跨越两省的佛国小镇 / Day 5: Langmusi — A Buddhist Town Straddling Two Provinces

郎木寺并非一座寺庙的名字，而是一个小镇。它横跨甘肃与四川两省，白龙江从镇中穿过。甘肃一侧是赛赤寺（门票30元），四川一侧是格尔底寺（门票30元），两座寺院隔江相望，各有千秋。笔者在赛赤寺后山的天葬台附近徒步时，遇见了盘旋的秃鹫群，那种原始而庄严的生死观令人震撼。镇上的丽莎餐厅（Lisa's Restaurant）自1990年代起便是背包客的据点，至今仍供应不错的苹果派和藏式面条。如果你对川藏线进藏路线感兴趣，郎木寺正是甘南通往川西的重要节点。

Langmusi is not the name of a single temple but of a small town. It straddles the border of Gansu and Sichuan provinces, with the White Dragon River flowing through its center. On the Gansu side stands Serti Monastery (30 RMB), and on the Sichuan side, Kirti Monastery (30 RMB) — the two face each other across the river, each with its own character. While hiking near the sky burial platform behind Serti Monastery, the author encountered circling vultures — a raw, solemn encounter with Tibetan views on life and death. In town, Lisa's Restaurant has been a backpacker institution since the 1990s and still serves decent apple pie alongside Tibetan noodles. If you're interested in the Sichuan-Tibet Highway route, Langmusi is a key node connecting Gannan to western Sichuan.

第六日：碌曲草原与尕海湖 / Day 6: Luqu Grasslands and Gahai Lake

碌曲县境内的尕海湖是甘南最大的高原淡水湖（海拔3480米），也是黑颈鹤、天鹅等珍稀候鸟的栖息地。每年五月至九月，湖畔湿地生机盎然，笔者在这里用望远镜观察到了至少三对黑颈鹤——这种被列为国家一级保护动物的优雅生灵。尕海湖门票免费，但需从碌曲县城驱车约50公里方可抵达。沿途的则岔石林同样值得停留，这片由砂岩构成的地质奇观藏在峡谷深处，门票20元，游览约需2小时。

Gahai Lake in Luqu County is Gannan's largest highland freshwater lake (elevation 3,480m) and a habitat for rare migratory birds including black-necked cranes and swans. From May through September, the lakeside wetlands teem with life — the author spotted at least three pairs of black-necked cranes through binoculars, elegant creatures classified as National First-Class Protected Animals. Gahai Lake is free to visit, though it requires a roughly 50 km drive from Luqu town. The Zechi Stone Forest along the way is also worth a stop — this sandstone geological wonder hidden deep in a canyon costs 20 RMB to enter and takes about two hours to explore.

第七日：合作市与米拉日巴佛阁 / Day 7: Hezuo City and Milarepa Hall

甘南州府合作市（海拔2960米）是行程的终点站。这里的米拉日巴佛阁是藏区罕见的楼阁式建筑，共九层，高40余米，内部供奉着藏传佛教各派的重要人物塑像。门票20元，登顶可俯瞰整座城市与远处的草原。合作市也是补给和休整的理想之地，市区内有多家品质不错的酒店（标间约200-350元/晚），也有直达兰州的班车（约4小时，票价约80元）。对于计划继续前往西藏世界屋脊或西北大环线自驾的旅行者，合作市是理想的中转枢纽。

The prefectural capital Hezuo (elevation 2,960m) serves as the journey's final stop. Its Milarepa Hall is a rare multi-story pavilion-style structure in Tibetan regions — nine floors, over 40 meters tall, housing important statues from all schools of Tibetan Buddhism. Tickets cost 20 RMB, and climbing to the top offers panoramic views of the city and distant grasslands. Hezuo is also ideal for resupply and rest, with several decent hotels in the city center (standard rooms around 200–350 RMB/night) and direct buses to Lanzhou (approximately 4 hours, about 80 RMB). For travelers planning to continue to the Roof of the World in Tibet or embark on the Northwest Grand Loop self-drive, Hezuo is an ideal transit hub.

笔者在七天的行程中深刻感受到，甘南的魅力不仅在于壮美的自然风光，更在于那种未被过度商业化侵蚀的藏地生活方式。当你在拉卜楞寺的转经廊中与僧侣擦肩而过，在扎尕那的晨雾中看见炊烟升起，在郎木寺的小巷里听见诵经声回荡——你会明白，这片被遗忘的秘境，恰恰因为被遗忘，才保存了最珍贵的东西。

Over seven days, the author came to understand that Gannan's allure lies not only in its magnificent natural scenery but in a Tibetan way of life not yet eroded by excessive commercialization. When you brush shoulders with monks in Labrang's prayer wheel corridor, watch cooking smoke rise through Zhagana's morning mist, or hear chanting echo through Langmusi's narrow lanes — you understand that this forgotten paradise has preserved its most precious qualities precisely because it was forgotten.